Aug 30, 2014

Where to Eat in Testaccio (minus the offal)

Rome's Testaccio neighborhood has long been associated with so-called quinto quarto dishes, traditional delights made from the leftover parts of grazing animals (including tripe, sweetbreads, lungs, nerves, tail, intestines, and liver).

But it's not all organs in contemporary Rome's working-class wonderland.
Testaccio has grown hipper by the decade and is now home to upbeat nightlife, museums and dance clubs. It also has its share of very good offal-less gourmet destinations.

Here's my shortlist of places to find great Testaccio meals while taking a break from the innards frenzy. Continue Reading ➔

Aug 12, 2014

Featured on Frommer's radio Travel Show

Sunday August 17th between noon and 2pm ET, I am interviewed by Arthur Frommer, founder of the Frommer's guidebooks and his daughter Pauline (publisher of hosts of the nationally syndicated Travel Show, now heard on radio in over 130 cities across the United States.

You can catch the live streaming, or download the podcast, which is generally available two weeks after broadcast. It will also be available on iTunes.


Aug 1, 2014

Unexplored Amalfi Coast and Sorrento Peninsula

Despite more than half-a-century of mass tourism and wildfire exploitation, the Sorrento Peninsula and the Amalfi Coast still possess a few unexplored and approachable places not yet corrupted by impossibly high prices and artificially piped lemon-scents.

Some remain authentically frozen in time, but you have to seek them out.

Here's my shortlist of lesser-known Amalfi Coast destinations that retain some of the dreamlike quality Steinbeck marveled at when he visited after WWII.

Continue Reading ➔