Aug 30, 2014

Where to Eat in Testaccio (minus the offal)

Rome's Testaccio neighborhood has long been associated with so-called quinto quarto dishes, traditional delights made from the leftover parts of grazing animals (including tripe, sweetbreads, lungs, nerves, tail, intestines, and liver).

But it's not all organs in contemporary Rome's working-class wonderland.
Testaccio has grown hipper by the decade and is now home to upbeat nightlife, museums and dance clubs. It also has its share of very good offal-less gourmet destinations.

Here's my shortlist of places to find great Testaccio meals while taking a break from the innards frenzy. Continue Reading ➔


  1. It's been 9 years now since we lived in Rome. I love articles like these since my knowledge of the Roman food scene has become so woefully out of date. And it's so nice to see that La Torricella is still going strong! But all the others are new to me—good reason to get back one day...

  2. I loved Rome more than anywhere I traveled in Italy. I've heard something new now. I will not eat anything that is inside of an animal (like intestines, offal). Crazy, but I just can't. And now I hear someone eats nerves. That is a first for me.