Testaccio Market in Rome

Buzzing with activity, chatter and delicious aromas, the market square has historically been at the center of city life.

The Greek concept of agora – a term whose literal meaning is "gathering place" or "assembly" as the center of athletic, artistic, spiritual and political life of the city – later evolved to a place that also served as a marketplace where merchants sold their goods on stalls and small clustered shops. The agora marketplace brought people together to supply and provide sustenance for family and to foster communication, enhancing social interaction.

One of Rome's best examples of this cultural evolution is the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio: a modern-day agora sitting on nearly two millenia of history.

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What produce is in season in August?

Fact: produce is of better quality and taste when in season.

Though Italians have cooking and eating a selection of produce that rotates seasonally in their DNA, lately mass distribution and globalization have confused these rhythmic, natural guidelines, making the calendar distinction on our plate a little fuzzy.

Here is a list of what fruits and vegetables are in season in August in Italy, gracing our market stalls from Sicily to the Alps.

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Which fruit & vegetables are in season in May?

Fact: produce is of better quality and taste when in season.

In my inaugural blog post on Casa Mia, the new cultural association I co-founded, I talk about what's on display in markets from Sicily to the Alps this month – a pretty sight!

Here's a list of what's in season during May in Italy
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To market, to market...

On average, I usually shop at my local farmer's market three times a week. I've also been to virtually every mercato rionale (Rome's neighborhoods are known as "rioni") and often take gourmand visitors on market tours during which I explain seasonal variations and encourage them to taste local goods. Over time, I've become something of a market connoisseur.

Market shopping has little in common with impersonal supermarket hustle. It's a world unto itself with subtle protocols.
For those interested in the ancient art of market shopping, here's a brief collection of insider tips.

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Shopping with chef Angelo Troiani

Last week the second episode of the video-interview series Chef a chi? I get to spend quality time in some of Rome's best restaurant kitchens, to study and learn what happens backstage.

This month's installment features a whole day spent with Angelo Troiani, Executive Chef of renowned Rome dining institution and Michelin star studded Il Convivio Troiani.

We met at his fishmonger's shop, and learned where the catch of the day and wonderful seafood served on the Convivio's menu is sourced, as well as an impromptu snack of fresh Tsarskaya oysters. I had never eaten oysters at 10 am before, let alone in summer. But this variety is cultivated in cold Brittany sea waters, and their pulpy marine flesh is exceptionally well-balanced with a sweet aftertaste, and totally milk-free.

Then we proceeded to meet Angelo's trusted purveyors at the Roma Farmer's Market, and learned about wonderful local varieties of tomatoes, beans, broccoli, and other produce from Azienda Agricola Paolo Giobbi, plus interesting conversations with producers of locally pressed olive oil, amazing artisan salumi and cheeses.

Heavy with bulging canvas shoppers and stacked crates, we headed to the restaurant kitchen where we met the team and witnessed the early stages of the day's work. Bread being made, a meeting during which the day's menu is designed, tasks and chores are assigned. As we observed the phases of many signature dishes, seeing them come to life in the able and caring hands of the chef and his brigade of young assistants, we drooled with delight.



We parted as the last crates were being delivered, and the first reservation calls for the dinner service were ringing the phone off the hook.

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Local Rome markets

Neighborhood produce markets and farmers' markets are all over town. Rome is a big city, and the number of markets is staggering. That’s just how lucky we are here. Every day, smallholders and sellers provide seasonal and quality fresh fruit and vegetables–in some cases from their own nearby territories–directly to consumers. No middle men. Prices may be a little higher than those of big retail chains that capitalize on mass-distribution, but quality and freshness are indisputably superior.

But mercati rionali are also the modern day agoràs where residents socialize, and browse other stalls beyond produce: charcuteries, butchers for all tastes and religions, fishmongers, florists, honey beekeepers, olive oil farmers, bread bakers, vintners, clothing vendors, haberdashers and housewares sellers.

Mornings at the market begin with purveyors' familiar faces, customers engaging in friendly conversation, warm greetings and small talk over crates of fresh salad greens, vine-riped tomatoes, carrot bunches, soiled potatoes, onions, pumpkins, brown eggs, pared artichokes, chopped mixed vegetables for minestrone, catalogna for puntarelle soaking in tubs of fountain water.

Through this relationship based on everyday contact, Italians are raised trusting their suppliers. Thanks to this interaction, we learn about local foods, their origin and farming methods. Giuliana, the signora that sells me mesculun salad grown in her country orto, personally guarantees safety from pesticides and unethical farming (many producers adhere to a natural approach for their agriculture, and gain prestigious certification for it), and contextually allows me to benefit from transparent traceability, decrease the number of food miles and enjoy amazing quality meals.

Here is a randomly ordered list of FARMERS' MARKETS in Rome, where producers and consumers come face to face, drastically cutting the agricultural food chain:

Roma Farmer's Market - Città dell’Altra Economia Via D. Frisullo (ex-abattoir in Testaccio) Tel. +39 3471217942 Ex-Mattatoio abattoir Largo Giovanni Battista Marzi entrance, near Ponte Testaccio – Stall 9C – Sat. 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. / Sun. 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Mercato Campagna Amica del Circo Massimo Via San Teodoro, 74 – Weekends
Mercato Contadino Tiburtino Via Tiburtina 695 - Tel. +39 347 538 1452
Mercato Campagna Amica Monteverde L.go Alessandrina Ravizza
Centro Sportivo Val Melania Via di Val Melania, 81 – Monthly
Audirorium di Roma Parco della Musica Via P. de Coubertin, 30 – Occasionally, on weekends
Mercato Campagna Amica San Luca Evangelista Via R. Malatesta – 2nd Sunday of the month
Mercato Campagna Amica San Clemente Papa Via Val Padana – Monthly
Mercato Campagna Amica Nuovo Salario P.zza A. Fradeletto – Occasionally, on Sundays
Mercato Campagna Amica Prati Fiscali Via dei Prati Fiscali – Occasionally, on Sundays
Parco Almagià Via Zenodossio (Torpignattara)
San Saba P.zza G.L. Bernini
Piazza Bologna P.zza Bologna
Pio XI P.zza Pio XI (Aurelio)
Il Parco di Sabato S. Igino Papa park (Aurelio Primavalle) Tel. +39 06 5237 9595 – 4th Saturday of the month
L'Altra Domenica & Biomercato - Città dell’Altra Economia Via D. Frisullo (ex-abattoir in Testaccio) Tel. +39 347 121 7942 – 3rd Sunday of the month
Mercato della Terra di Slow Food - ASL Via M. Calò (Ciampino) – 3rd Sunday of the month
Mercatino Agricolo di Stagione in Stagione - La Casa Internazionale delle Donne Via della Lungara, 19 Tel. +39 06 6840 1720 – 2nd Saturday of the month
Mercato Agricolo Biologico - Casale Podere Rosa Via Diego Fabbri/Via A. De Stefani (Nomentano) – 1st Saturday of the month
Mercato Contadino e Biologico Terra/Terra (4 rotating locations) - Centro Sociale Occupato Autogestito La Torre Via C. G. Bertero, 13 (Pietralata) – 1st Sunday of the month ~ Città dell’Utopia Via Valeriano, 3/F (Ostiense) – 3rd Saturday of the month ~ C.S.O.A. Forte Prenestino Via F. Delpino (Centocelle) – 3rd Sunday of the month ~ Piazza Santa Maria Consolatrice (Casalbertone) – 4th Sunday of the month
Mercato Bio di Aguzzano - Il Centro di Cultura Ecologica Via Schopenhauer, corner of Via Locke (Rebibbia)

Here is a list of Rome NEIGHBORHOOD MARKETS divided by Municipi, the city's 19 municipalities:

MUNICIPIO I
Monti – Trevi – Colonna – Campo Marzio – Ponte – Parione – Regola – S.Eustachio – Pigna – Campitelli – S.Angelo – Ripa – Trastevere – Esquilino – Ludovisi – Sallustiano – Castro Pretorio – Celio – Testaccio – San Saba
Bocca di Leone Via Bocca di Leone · Open air
Campo Marzio 1 P.zza Monte D'Oro · Covered
Campo Marzio 2 Piazza delle Coppelle · Open air
Castro Pretorio Via Milazzo · Open air
Celio Via SS. Quattro · Open air
Nuovo Esquilino Via Turati · Covered
Macao Via Montebello · Open air
Monti Via Baccina · Covered
Regola 1 Piazza Campo de' Fiori · Open air
Regola 2 Via della Pace · Open air
San Saba P.zza G.L. Bernini · Open air
Santa Lucia Vicolo della Moretta · Open air
Sommelier Via G. Sommelier · Open air
Testaccio Piazza Testaccio · Covered
Trastevere/San Cosimato P.zza San Cosimato · Open air
Trevi Via del Lavatore · Open air
Viminale Via Cesare Balbo · Open air

MUNICIPIO II
Flaminio – Parioli – Pinciano – Salario – Trieste
Crati P.zza Crati · Open air
Flaminio 1 Via Flaminia · Covered
Flaminio 2 Via Guido Reni · Covered
Nomentano P.zza Alessandria · Covered
Parioli V.le Parioli · Open air
Pinciano Via Antonelli · Covered
Salario Via Metauro · Open air
Savoia P.zza Gimma · Covered
Trieste Via Chiana · Covered
Vescovio Via Fara Sabina · Open air
Viale della Moschea (Fridays only) · Open air
Via della XVII Olimpiade (Fridays only) · Open air

MUNICIPIO III
Nomentano – Tiburtino
Italia Via Catania · Covered
Portonaccio 1 Via Vespri Siciliani · Open air
Stevenson Via V.E. Stevenson · Open air
Tiburtino 1 Largo degli Osci (S. Lorenzo) · Open air

MUNICIPIO IV
Monte Sacro – Monte Sacro Alto – Val Melaina – Castel Giubileo – Marcigliana – Casal Boccone – Tor S. Giovanni
Fidene L.go S. Felicita · Open air
Talenti Via G. Deledda/Via V. Gambara · Open air
Monte Sacro 1 P.le Adriatico · Covered
Monte Sacro 2 P.zza Menenio Agrippa · Open air
Sacchetti Via F. Sacchetti · Open air
Serpentara Via V. Talli · Open air
Tufello P.zza degli Euganei · Covered
Val Melaina Via G. Conti · Open air
Valdinievole Via Val d’Ossola · Open air

MUNICIPIO V
Tiburtino – Pietralata – Collatino – Ponte Mammolo – San Basilio – Settecamini – Tor Cervara – Tor Sapienza – Acqua Vergine
Casal de' Pazzi Via Kant/Via Locke · Open air
Casal Bertone Via C. Ricotti · Open air
Ina Casa Via dei Crispolti · Open air
Meda Via F. Meda · Open air
Ponte Mammolo Via Rivisondoli · Covered
Portonaccio 2 Via San Romano · Covered
Rebibbia Via G.B. Scanaroli · Open air
San Basilio Via Recanati · Covered
Tiburtino 2 V.le G. Stefanini · Open air
Tiburtino Sud Via Sacco e Vanzetti · Open air
Artigianmercato Via Mozart · Covered

MUNICIPIO VI
Tiburtino – Prenestino Labicano – Tuscolano – Collatino
Casilino Via del Pigneto · Open air
Casilino 23 Via Ferraironi · Open air
Labicano/Condottieri Via A. da Giussano · Open air
Gordiani V.le Ronchi · Open air
Olevano Romano Via Olevano Romano · Open air
Perestrello L.go Perestrello · Open air
Tor Pignattara Via Ciro d’Urbino · Covered
Villa Gordiani Via Rovigo d’Istria · Open air

MUNICIPIO VII
Tuscolano – Prenestino Centocelle – Alessandrino – Don Bosco – Tor Sapienza – Torre Spaccata – La Rustica
Centocelle Via degli Olivi · Covered
Grano Via del Grano · Open air
Meli Via dei Meli · Open air
Platani Via dei Platani · Open air
Quarticciolo Via Ostuni · Covered
Tor Sapienza Via De Pisis · Open air
La Rustica Via Dameta · Open air

MUNICIPIO VIII
Don Bosco – Lunghezza – S. Vittorino – Torre Angela – Borghesiana – Torrenova – Torre Maura – Torre Gaia – Torre Spaccata
Tor Bella Monaca Via dell’Archeologia · Open air
Torre Maura P.zza degli Alcioni · Open air
Torre Spaccata 1 V.le dei Romanisti · Covered
Torre Spaccata 2 Via Sisenna · Open air

MUNICIPIO IX
Prenestino Labicano – Tuscolano – Appio Latino
Appio Via F. Valesio · Open air
Colli Albani Via Castelgandolfo · Open air
Latino P.zza Epiro · Partly covered
Latino Nuovo Via Gregorovius · Open air
Metronio Via Magna Grecia · Covered
Ragusa Via Verbania · Open air
Tuscolano 1 Via Orvieto · Open air

MUNICIPIO X
Tuscolano – Don Bosco – Collatino – Appio Pignatelli – Capannelle
Calisse/Bonfante V.le M.F. Nobiliore · Open air
Nuovo Cinecittà Largo Appio Claudio · Open air
Cinecittà Est Via S. Oberto · Open air
Piscine di Torre Spaccata Via R. Vignali · Open air
Quadraro P.zza dei Tribuni · Open air
Quarto Miglio Via Menofilo · Open air
Statuario Via Polia · Open air
Tuscolano 3 Via del Quadraro · Covered

MUNICIPIO XI
Appio Latino – Ostiense – Ardeatino – Appio Pignatelli – Aeroporto Ciampino – Torricola – Cecchignola
Commercio Via del Commercio · Open air
Garbatella Via Passino · Covered
Grotta Perfetta Via Granai di Nerva · Open air
La Montagnola Via Pico della Mirandola · Open air
Navigatori P.zza dei Navigatori · Open air
Ostiense Via Corinto · Covered
Tor Marancio Via R.R. Garibaldi · Open air

MUNICIPIO XII
Ostiense – Giuliano Dalmata – Europa – Castel di Leva – Vallerano – Castel di Decima – Torrino – Vitinia
Decima Incis Via Sansotta · Open air
Laurentino 38 Via F. Sapori · Open air
Spinaceto Via Caduti per la Resistenza · Open air
Tor de' Cenci Via R. Bertani · Open air
Vigna Murata Via Meldola · Open air

MUNICIPIO XIII
Lido di Ostia Ponente – Lido di Ostia Levante – Acilia – Lido di Castel Fusano – Castel Porziano – Mezzocammino
Stella Polare Via Capo Passero · Open air
Ostia Lido Nord Via dell’Appagliatore · Open air
Ostia Centro Via Orazio dello Sbirro · Covered
Casal Bernocchi Via G. Biagi · Covered
Casal Palocco Via A. Galli · Covered

MUNICIPIO XV (there is no 14)
Portuense – Gianicolense – Magliana Vecchia – La Pisana – Ponte Galeria
Casetta Mattei Via La Contea · Open air
Enrico Fermi Via D. Macaluso · Open air
Magliana Viale Pescaglia · Open air
Monte Cucco Via G. Porzio · Open air
Portuense 2 Via Portuense · Open air
Portuense 3 L.go S. Silvia · Open air
Trullo Via Campagnano · Covered

MUNICIPIO XVI
Portuense – Gianicolense – Maccarese – La Pisana Nord – Castel di Guido
Bravetta P.zza Visconti · Open air
Donna Olimpia Via Donna Olimpia · Open air
Gianicolense P.zza S. Giovanni di Dio · Open air
Monreale L.go Monreale · Open air
Monteverde Nuovo Via G. de Calvi · Open air
Monteverde Vecchio Via G.B. Niccolini · Open air
Portuense 1 Via E. Rolli · Open air
Vascello Via del Vascello · Open air

MUNICIPIO XVII
Borgo – Trionfale – Prati – Della Vittoria
Prati P.zza dell’Unità · Covered
Tito Speri Via Tito Speri · Open air
Trionfale Via Andrea Doria · Covered
Vittoria Via Monte Santo · Covered

MUNICIPIO XVIII
Aurelio – Trionfale – Primavalle – Casalotti
Aurelio Via San Silverio · Open air
Casalotti Via Ovada · Open air
Irnerio Via Aurelia · Open air
Pineta Sacchetti Via Urbano II · Open air
Sisto IV Via Sisto IV · Open air

MUNICIPIO XIX
Aurelio – Trionfale – Primavalle
Belsito P.zza C. Mazzaresi · Covered
Monte Mario P.zza P. Thouar · Partly covered
Primavalle 1 Via Igino Papa · Covered
Primavalle 2 Via Pasquale II · Open air
Torrevecchia Via Sciamanna · Open air
Vegezio Via Vegezio · Open air

MUNICIPIO XX
Della Vittoria – Tor di Quinto – La Storta – Cesano – Tomba di Nerone – La Giustiniana
Flaminio Nuovo Via Tuscia · Open air
Ponte Milvio Via Riano · Covered
Saxa Rubra P.zza Saxa Rubra · Open air
Tor di Quinto Via Monteleone da Spoleto · Open air

Source: Italian Chamber of Commerce
Comprehensive and updated ROME MARKET news can be found (in Italian) at 06blog.it - MondoBio and La Foglia