Neighborhood produce markets and farmers' markets are all over town. Rome is a big city, and the number of markets is staggering. That’s just how lucky we are here. Every day, smallholders and sellers provide seasonal and quality fresh fruit and vegetables–in some cases from their own nearby territories–directly to consumers. No middle men. Prices may be a little higher than those of big retail chains that capitalize on mass-distribution, but quality and freshness are indisputably superior.
But mercati rionali are also the modern day agoràs where residents socialize, and browse other stalls beyond produce: charcuteries, butchers for all tastes and religions, fishmongers, florists, honey beekeepers, olive oil farmers, bread bakers, vintners, clothing vendors, haberdashers and housewares sellers.
Mornings at the market begin with purveyors' familiar faces, customers engaging in friendly conversation, warm greetings and small talk over crates of fresh salad greens, vine-riped tomatoes, carrot bunches, soiled potatoes, onions, pumpkins, brown eggs, pared artichokes, chopped mixed vegetables for minestrone, catalogna for puntarelle soaking in tubs of fountain water.
Through this relationship based on everyday contact, Italians are raised trusting their suppliers. Thanks to this interaction, we learn about local foods, their origin and farming methods. Giuliana, the signora that sells me mesculun salad grown in her country orto, personally guarantees safety from pesticides and unethical farming (many producers adhere to a natural approach for their agriculture, and gain prestigious certification for it), and contextually allows me to benefit from transparent traceability, decrease the number of food miles and enjoy amazing quality meals.
Here is a randomly ordered list of FARMERS' MARKETS in Rome, where producers and consumers come face to face, drastically cutting the agricultural food chain:
Roma Farmer's Market -
Mercato Campagna Amica del Circo Massimo Via San Teodoro, 74 – Weekends
Mercato Contadino Tiburtino Via Tiburtina 695 - Tel. +39 347 538 1452
Mercato Campagna Amica Monteverde L.go Alessandrina Ravizza
Centro Sportivo Val Melania Via di Val Melania, 81 – Monthly
Audirorium di Roma Parco della Musica Via P. de Coubertin, 30 – Occasionally, on weekends
Mercato Campagna Amica San Luca Evangelista Via R. Malatesta – 2nd Sunday of the month
Mercato Campagna Amica San Clemente Papa Via Val Padana – Monthly
Mercato Campagna Amica Nuovo Salario P.zza A. Fradeletto – Occasionally, on Sundays
Mercato Campagna Amica Prati Fiscali Via dei Prati Fiscali – Occasionally, on Sundays
Parco Almagià Via Zenodossio (Torpignattara)
San Saba P.zza G.L. Bernini
Piazza Bologna P.zza Bologna
Pio XI P.zza Pio XI (Aurelio)
Il Parco di Sabato S. Igino Papa park (Aurelio Primavalle) Tel. +39 06 5237 9595 – 4th Saturday of the month
L'Altra Domenica & Biomercato - Città dell’Altra Economia Via D. Frisullo (ex-abattoir in Testaccio) Tel. +39 347 121 7942 – 3rd Sunday of the month
Mercato della Terra di Slow Food - ASL Via M. Calò (Ciampino) – 3rd Sunday of the month
Mercatino Agricolo di Stagione in Stagione - La Casa Internazionale delle Donne Via della Lungara, 19 Tel. +39 06 6840 1720 – 2nd Saturday of the month
Mercato Agricolo Biologico - Casale Podere Rosa Via Diego Fabbri/Via A. De Stefani (Nomentano) – 1st Saturday of the month
Mercato Contadino e Biologico Terra/Terra (4 rotating locations) - Centro Sociale Occupato Autogestito La Torre Via C. G. Bertero, 13 (Pietralata) – 1st Sunday of the month ~ Città dell’Utopia Via Valeriano, 3/F (Ostiense) – 3rd Saturday of the month ~ C.S.O.A. Forte Prenestino Via F. Delpino (Centocelle) – 3rd Sunday of the month ~ Piazza Santa Maria Consolatrice (Casalbertone) – 4th Sunday of the month
Mercato Bio di Aguzzano - Il Centro di Cultura Ecologica Via Schopenhauer, corner of Via Locke (Rebibbia)
Here is a list of Rome NEIGHBORHOOD MARKETS divided by Municipi, the city's 19 municipalities:
Monti – Trevi – Colonna – Campo Marzio – Ponte – Parione – Regola – S.Eustachio – Pigna – Campitelli – S.Angelo – Ripa – Trastevere – Esquilino – Ludovisi – Sallustiano – Castro Pretorio – Celio – Testaccio – San Saba
Bocca di Leone Via Bocca di Leone · Open air
Campo Marzio 1 P.zza Monte D'Oro · Covered
Campo Marzio 2 Piazza delle Coppelle · Open air
Castro Pretorio Via Milazzo · Open air
Celio Via SS. Quattro · Open air
Nuovo Esquilino Via Turati · Covered
Macao Via Montebello · Open air
Monti Via Baccina · Covered
Regola 1 Piazza Campo de' Fiori · Open air
Regola 2 Via della Pace · Open air
San Saba P.zza G.L. Bernini · Open air
Santa Lucia Vicolo della Moretta · Open air
Sommelier Via G. Sommelier · Open air
Testaccio Piazza Testaccio · Covered
Trastevere/San Cosimato P.zza San Cosimato · Open air
Trevi Via del Lavatore · Open air
Viminale Via Cesare Balbo · Open air
Flaminio – Parioli – Pinciano – Salario – Trieste
Crati P.zza Crati · Open air
Flaminio 1 Via Flaminia · Covered
Flaminio 2 Via Guido Reni · Covered
Nomentano P.zza Alessandria · Covered
Parioli V.le Parioli · Open air
Pinciano Via Antonelli · Covered
Salario Via Metauro · Open air
Savoia P.zza Gimma · Covered
Trieste Via Chiana · Covered
Vescovio Via Fara Sabina · Open air
Viale della Moschea (Fridays only) · Open air
Via della XVII Olimpiade (Fridays only) · Open air
Nomentano – Tiburtino
Italia Via Catania · Covered
Portonaccio 1 Via Vespri Siciliani · Open air
Stevenson Via V.E. Stevenson · Open air
Tiburtino 1 Largo degli Osci (S. Lorenzo) · Open air
Monte Sacro – Monte Sacro Alto – Val Melaina – Castel Giubileo – Marcigliana – Casal Boccone – Tor S. Giovanni
Fidene L.go S. Felicita · Open air
Talenti Via G. Deledda/Via V. Gambara · Open air
Monte Sacro 1 P.le Adriatico · Covered
Monte Sacro 2 P.zza Menenio Agrippa · Open air
Sacchetti Via F. Sacchetti · Open air
Serpentara Via V. Talli · Open air
Tufello P.zza degli Euganei · Covered
Val Melaina Via G. Conti · Open air
Valdinievole Via Val d’Ossola · Open air
Tiburtino – Pietralata – Collatino – Ponte Mammolo – San Basilio – Settecamini – Tor Cervara – Tor Sapienza – Acqua Vergine
Casal de' Pazzi Via Kant/Via Locke · Open air
Casal Bertone Via C. Ricotti · Open air
Ina Casa Via dei Crispolti · Open air
Meda Via F. Meda · Open air
Ponte Mammolo Via Rivisondoli · Covered
Portonaccio 2 Via San Romano · Covered
Rebibbia Via G.B. Scanaroli · Open air
San Basilio Via Recanati · Covered
Tiburtino 2 V.le G. Stefanini · Open air
Tiburtino Sud Via Sacco e Vanzetti · Open air
Artigianmercato Via Mozart · Covered
Tiburtino – Prenestino Labicano – Tuscolano – Collatino
Casilino Via del Pigneto · Open air
Casilino 23 Via Ferraironi · Open air
Labicano/Condottieri Via A. da Giussano · Open air
Gordiani V.le Ronchi · Open air
Olevano Romano Via Olevano Romano · Open air
Perestrello L.go Perestrello · Open air
Tor Pignattara Via Ciro d’Urbino · Covered
Villa Gordiani Via Rovigo d’Istria · Open air
Tuscolano – Prenestino Centocelle – Alessandrino – Don Bosco – Tor Sapienza – Torre Spaccata – La Rustica
Centocelle Via degli Olivi · Covered
Grano Via del Grano · Open air
Meli Via dei Meli · Open air
Platani Via dei Platani · Open air
Quarticciolo Via Ostuni · Covered
Tor Sapienza Via De Pisis · Open air
La Rustica Via Dameta · Open air
Don Bosco – Lunghezza – S. Vittorino – Torre Angela – Borghesiana – Torrenova – Torre Maura – Torre Gaia – Torre Spaccata
Tor Bella Monaca Via dell’Archeologia · Open air
Torre Maura P.zza degli Alcioni · Open air
Torre Spaccata 1 V.le dei Romanisti · Covered
Torre Spaccata 2 Via Sisenna · Open air
Prenestino Labicano – Tuscolano – Appio Latino
Appio Via F. Valesio · Open air
Colli Albani Via Castelgandolfo · Open air
Latino P.zza Epiro · Partly covered
Latino Nuovo Via Gregorovius · Open air
Metronio Via Magna Grecia · Covered
Ragusa Via Verbania · Open air
Tuscolano 1 Via Orvieto · Open air
Tuscolano – Don Bosco – Collatino – Appio Pignatelli – Capannelle
Calisse/Bonfante V.le M.F. Nobiliore · Open air
Nuovo Cinecittà Largo Appio Claudio · Open air
Cinecittà Est Via S. Oberto · Open air
Piscine di Torre Spaccata Via R. Vignali · Open air
Quadraro P.zza dei Tribuni · Open air
Quarto Miglio Via Menofilo · Open air
Statuario Via Polia · Open air
Tuscolano 3 Via del Quadraro · Covered
Appio Latino – Ostiense – Ardeatino – Appio Pignatelli – Aeroporto Ciampino – Torricola – Cecchignola
Commercio Via del Commercio · Open air
Garbatella Via Passino · Covered
Grotta Perfetta Via Granai di Nerva · Open air
La Montagnola Via Pico della Mirandola · Open air
Navigatori P.zza dei Navigatori · Open air
Ostiense Via Corinto · Covered
Tor Marancio Via R.R. Garibaldi · Open air
Ostiense – Giuliano Dalmata – Europa – Castel di Leva – Vallerano – Castel di Decima – Torrino – Vitinia
Decima Incis Via Sansotta · Open air
Laurentino 38 Via F. Sapori · Open air
Spinaceto Via Caduti per la Resistenza · Open air
Tor de' Cenci Via R. Bertani · Open air
Vigna Murata Via Meldola · Open air
Lido di Ostia Ponente – Lido di Ostia Levante – Acilia – Lido di Castel Fusano – Castel Porziano – Mezzocammino
Stella Polare Via Capo Passero · Open air
Ostia Lido Nord Via dell’Appagliatore · Open air
Ostia Centro Via Orazio dello Sbirro · Covered
Casal Bernocchi Via G. Biagi · Covered
Casal Palocco Via A. Galli · Covered
MUNICIPIO XV (there is no 14)
Portuense – Gianicolense – Magliana Vecchia – La Pisana – Ponte Galeria
Casetta Mattei Via La Contea · Open air
Enrico Fermi Via D. Macaluso · Open air
Magliana Viale Pescaglia · Open air
Monte Cucco Via G. Porzio · Open air
Portuense 2 Via Portuense · Open air
Portuense 3 L.go S. Silvia · Open air
Trullo Via Campagnano · Covered
Portuense – Gianicolense – Maccarese – La Pisana Nord – Castel di Guido
Bravetta P.zza Visconti · Open air
Donna Olimpia Via Donna Olimpia · Open air
Gianicolense P.zza S. Giovanni di Dio · Open air
Monreale L.go Monreale · Open air
Monteverde Nuovo Via G. de Calvi · Open air
Monteverde Vecchio Via G.B. Niccolini · Open air
Portuense 1 Via E. Rolli · Open air
Vascello Via del Vascello · Open air
Borgo – Trionfale – Prati – Della Vittoria
Prati P.zza dell’Unità · Covered
Tito Speri Via Tito Speri · Open air
Trionfale Via Andrea Doria · Covered
Vittoria Via Monte Santo · Covered
Aurelio – Trionfale – Primavalle – Casalotti
Aurelio Via San Silverio · Open air
Casalotti Via Ovada · Open air
Irnerio Via Aurelia · Open air
Pineta Sacchetti Via Urbano II · Open air
Sisto IV Via Sisto IV · Open air
Aurelio – Trionfale – Primavalle
Belsito P.zza C. Mazzaresi · Covered
Monte Mario P.zza P. Thouar · Partly covered
Primavalle 1 Via Igino Papa · Covered
Primavalle 2 Via Pasquale II · Open air
Torrevecchia Via Sciamanna · Open air
Vegezio Via Vegezio · Open air
Della Vittoria – Tor di Quinto – La Storta – Cesano – Tomba di Nerone – La Giustiniana
Flaminio Nuovo Via Tuscia · Open air
Ponte Milvio Via Riano · Covered
Saxa Rubra P.zza Saxa Rubra · Open air
Tor di Quinto Via Monteleone da Spoleto · Open air
Source: Italian Chamber of Commerce
Comprehensive and updated ROME MARKET news can be found (in Italian) at 06blog.it - MondoBio and La Foglia
Wow, that is a extensive list, thank you :)ReplyDelete
I could get lost in these markets, easily!!
I'm happy you feel the same way: I could spend hours browsing market stalls!
I am envious of your ability to get so much food that hasn't travelled the globe. I think one can take a 'market vacation" to Rome and just hapilly cook.ReplyDelete
Incredible! Thank you for putting together this very comprehensive list.ReplyDelete
We are very lucky to have these markets.
Ciao mia amica! Very interesting post. Thanks for all the info about them.ReplyDelete
Wow this a great list. It must have taken ages to assemble! Just 1 correction: The Roma Farmer's Market is located at Largo Giovanni Battista Marzi, near Ponte Testaccio. It is not directly affiliated with the Citta' dell'Altra Economia, though it is associated with the Mercato di Campagna Amica del Circo Massimo. Many of the vendors are the same. Ciao!ReplyDelete
Fantastic post Eleonora! Thanks so much, what a lot of hard workk!ReplyDelete
I love Farmer's markets in Italy and we always hunt them out if we are visiting there. I appreciate the time, effort and artistry that goes into the displays and am always moved when I am handed a little gift of some herbs or something, often tied in a ribbon. Viva Italia!!ReplyDelete
Makes you wonder why anyone would ever want to go to a super market with places like this around ?ReplyDelete
Here in France, we get more and more from the local farmers market, and you are right, the quality is far superior.
Maybe if more and more people get the message about the value of fresh food, some of the industrial processing could be done away with. (Leaving behind only some abandonned factories to explore)
As mindful consumers, we should strive to byu food that has traveled the least amount from our table. We are lucky indeed.
As a fellow market-lover I knew you'd appreciate...
I know this post interests locals more than readers abroad, but it's a good list to have when traveling here. Thank you for your interest.
That was the one I was most confused about, actually. I'll make the correction immediately, thanks!
I have actually been putting this list together for quite some time!
It's customary for produce vendors to add little bonus herbs, or a rib of celery, an onion and a carrot for soffritto in your bag.
It's we consumers that can make the difference. If we all stop going to convenient supermarkets and start supporting local farmers and producers, prices will inevitably drop...
Thank you all for your kind comments.
Mi piaciono i mercati, e bellissimo girare e sentire gridare cosa hanno da vendere i commercianti :)ReplyDelete
I am so envious of the availability of fresh markets! We have so little to choose from here.....smiles...ReplyDelete
when do i get to buy the book?ReplyDelete
and for your awesomeness:
Anche io adoro andare al mercato. È un'abitudine quotidiana.
Italy is still very attached to its rural origins. We are indeed very lucky to have such abundance of markets.
The book is alas still in search of a publisher. Any tips? ;)
Wow! What a fabulous array of markets to choose from. :-) I love your shot of the artichokes. I've still never had artichokes as good as the ones I had in Rome. I dream about them. :-)ReplyDelete
Thank you! I could live on artichokes alone... well maybe not, but thankfully we have 2 seasons in a year, and I can't wait for the giant globes (pictured in my photo) to come along in spring.
Dreaming artichokes is good!!
Ciao Eleonora, all the best for 2011.ReplyDelete
I am back at last and have missed some great posts. We always try and buy our fresh fruit and veg that we do not produce ourselves from local markets. Interesting about the raw milk, not that many months ago a delivery round van has set up a round in our area.
I suggest you give the raw milk a try, it's well worth it. I'll never tire of saying this, YOU ARE SO LUCKY to grow your own produce!
Ciao and welcome back
Question: What does "S.P.Q.R." stand for? I'm sure I've seen it before, and possibly was told what it meant, but I'm drawing a blank now.ReplyDelete
Senatus PopulusQue Romanus: the senate and the people of Rome. I posted about it HERE
Such a wonderful job you did !ReplyDelete
P.S. Adoro il mercato (che qui è a 50mt da casa) in altre città e in altri Paesi (specie in Asia), perché è il miglior modo di immergersi nella realtà locale.
Nice list and beautiful pictures!ReplyDelete
I bet you can find all kinds of interesting foods and what nots in those places!
Keep up the good work!
Concordo, il mercato è uno spaccato puro della società.
Yes the finds are fresh, local and reliable. For the more exotic there are special markets too. Thanks for your visit!
Wow, this is a comprehensive list. Markets like this are so important. We always use our local market, here in Fethiye because we believe strongly that markets should be supported above the supermarkets (which are on the increase here).ReplyDelete
Fortunately, a lot of our Turkish friends of our age (30-somethings), feel the same way as we do so it looks as though the markets have a future, at least for a while.
Thanks for pointing this out. Local markets provide not only better quality products and reduce food miles, shopping there is also a way of supporting smaller businesses vs the powerful food groups.
Thank you! I knew I had seen it before, and I should have retained that knowledge. Thanks for the refresher!ReplyDelete
I love this post!ReplyDelete
Thank you so much for this extensive list. I think I just found my new favorite site that will help us plan our visit to Rome.ReplyDelete